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In the world of high fashion—where luxury brands demand the best in creative vision and leadership—iconic labels from Louis Vuitton to Chanel, Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, and Ralph Lauren seek designers who can uphold their prestige. Even Manolo Blahnik, now in his eighties, still designs his legendary shoe line. But as original visionaries age out, the search for the next creative icon begins.
Many believed Sabato De Sarno was that next step toward continued greatness for Gucci. However, his fate was tainted by a harsh critique that labeled his debut collection as merely “commercial.” His less-than-classy response? “This is bull#%&*!”—a retort that set the tone for his tumultuous tenure as Gucci’s creative director.
There’s no doubt that De Sarno had big shoes to fill. His predecessor, Alessandro Michele, had wielded a magic wand over Gucci for seven years, reversing the brand’s fortunes and redefining fashion. But magic fades. Reports of flattening sales and declining share prices signaled that change was inevitable. De Sarno was expected to be the next great Houdini—the one to reignite Gucci’s flame.
Yet, his abrupt departure on February 6, 2025, after just over a year in the role, seems a bittersweet validation of his short reign. The weight of Gucci’s financial struggles during his tenure pointed to his inability to create collections that would bring the necessary commercial success. Parent company Kering’s sales plummeted 16% in the third quarter of 2024, falling to €3.79 billion—a troubling sign for the business. Kering’s Fashion and Leather Goods Houses—including Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, and Brioni—are known for their craftsmanship, creativity, and distinct brand identities. Gucci, however, was falling short.
Was De Sarno doomed from the start, entering Gucci at the dawn of a luxury market slowdown? Fashion cycles ebb and flow, often influenced by political and economic forces. The industry's current trend of "creative correction" aims to boost sales in uncertain financial times. One truth remains: luxury thrives on decadence—an ethos that, no matter how rationalized, feels increasingly uneasy in today’s climate of universal insecurity.
As Luca Solca of Bernstein observed, “The demure style of Sabato De Sarno didn't fit the exuberant image that consumers have built of Gucci in the past 30 years.” His appointment, Solca noted, was part of management’s strategy to push Gucci toward a more mainstream position.
Now, lingering questions remain: Who will succeed De Sarno? And where will the next wave of creative correction take hold in 2025? One thing is certain—Gucci’s next creative director will be announced when Gucci decides the time is right.