Five years ago, Remake created an assessment criterion with the goal of guiding the fashion community toward ethical and sustainable shopping alternatives to fast fashion. Its commitment has continued to fine-tune the process. In November 2022, Remake released its second annual Fashion Accountability Report. During their research, they found several troubling supply chain trends across the industry — but there were also a handful of significant sparks of change that appeared in their findings, pointing to the potential of a future for fashion that is fair, humane, and ethical.
While progress toward achieving a more sustainable clothing industry is slow, the following listed six major wins in the areas of wages, commercial practices, policy, governance, and raw materials achieved in 2022 s cause to celebrate the great work being done to create a more equitable and sustainable industry.
1. VICTORIA’S SECRET PAYS OVERDUE WAGE THEFT TO GARMENT WORKERS
In one of the most egregious cases documented, more than 1,250 Thai garment workers who sewed bras for Victoria’s Secret & Co., Lane Bryant, and Torrid were left without millions of dollars in legally owed severance when the Brilliant Alliance garment factory in Thailand abruptly shuttered in March 2021 and left workers destitute. The Thai government ordered the Hong Kong-based Clover Group, to pay severance within 30 days. Clover refused and informed the factory workers that it had no money and that they should agree to wait 10 years to be paid in full.
2. GANNI BECOMES THE FIRST KNOWN BRAND TO SIGN A BUYER CODE OF CONDUCT
3. SOME BIG BRANDS Are BEING MORE TRANSPARENT ABOUT LIVING WAGE PROGRESS:
• Four companies (7%) – Hanesbrands Inc., Patagonia, Ralph Lauren, and Reformation – published some progress towards living wages in their supply chains in addition to disclosing the methodology they use to quantify a living wage.
• Five companies (9%) — Burberry, Kering (Gucci, Balenciaga), Marks & Spencer, PUMA, and Reformation — published partial information indicating that some of their direct employees – i.e. corporate or retail workers – earn a living wage.
4. BRANDS PLEDGE TO SUPPORT THE FABRIC ACT :
The FABRIC Act aims to end wage theft for garment workers on a federal level, establish brand accountability, and incentivize the return of garment production in the U.S., and has been officially endorsed by nearly 100 companies thus far. And in a major win, Reformation and Everlane have pledged support to the FABRIC Act.
5. 17 COMPANIES (46%) OF THE RELEVANT COMPANIES FEATURED IN THE REPORT HAVE SIGNED THE INTERNATIONAL ACCORD.
In August 2021, during the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic, the new International Accord for Health and Safety in the Textile and Garment Industry was agreed upon and expanded its scope to include garment worker health and well-being.
6. Three BRANDS ACTUALLY REDUCED VIRGIN POLYESTER USAGE
Three companies (5%) – Everlane, Nike, Inc., and Patagonia – can demonstrate and report that their usage of virgin oil-based synthetic materials is decreasing – not simply that their use of recycled content is increasing. This is significant because it means these companies are making progress toward replacing virgin synthetics with recycled fiber.
However, fashion must significantly reduce its dependence on synthetic textiles, particularly virgin synthetics, if we are to have any hope of making real progress on the overwhelming burden of plastics in our biosphere. Synthetic textiles are fossil-fuel derived, non-biodegradable, and non-compostable. They shed microplastics into our waterways, soil, and air. They’re found in most clothing that we wear and account for over two-thirds of all fiber production, with polyester alone comprising just over half.
As consumers start to connect the links between fashion, big oil, and the climate crisis, replacing a reliance on virgin polyester with a reliance on recycled polyester (rPET) gives companies a quick and easy sustainability story to tell. The promise of rPET production is that it is less carbon-intensive and less wasteful to produce than virgin materials. But recycled polyester is still…polyester. It doesn’t perform any better, it doesn’t eliminate microplastics, and it’s still non-biodegradable and non-compostable.
“THE TIMES ARE A CHANGIN’”
These six wins from this year’s report are a testament that the industry is ready and willing to become more ethical, more just, and more sustainable through tangible, positive actions. We must become conscientious consumers and continue to push for actions, policies, and binding agreements that hold fashion brands accountable and provide justice for people and the planet.
* Remake is a global advocacy organization fighting for fair pay and climate justice in the clothing industry. We are here to end poverty wages, unsafe conditions, and gender-based violence with which our clothes are made today.